Ελληνικά ήθη και έθιμα στην Κύπρο: με παρατηρήσεις για τη φυσιογνωσία και την οικονομία όπως επίσης και για την πρόοδο κάτω από την αγγλική κυριαρχία, Magda Ohnefalsh-Richter, μετάφραση-εισαγωγή - σχόλια και επιμέλεια Άννα Γ. Μαραγκού, Cultural Center of Laiki Bank, 1994.
Magda Ohnefalsch-Richter (1873-1922) was a German scholar, writer and archaeologist, particularly known for her contributions to the study of ancient Mediterranean cultures. She pursued studies in photography and drawing at the renowned Lette technical school for women in Berlin. In 1891, she met the talented and versatile German "journalist and archaeologist" Max Ohnefalsch-Richter, whom she married in 1894. That same year, the couple, with financial support from the German Emperor, arrived in Cyprus for archaeological excavations.
She accompanied her husband not only as a wife but also as an assistant and the official photographer and illustrator of the excavations. They lived in Cyprus for eight years (1894-1912) in various locations, depending on the needs of the excavation work. During this time, she collected a significant amount of photographic and other material related to Greek customs and traditions in Cyprus, which, as she notes, were beginning to disappear due to the European influences that accompanied British rule on the island.
Magda Ohnefalsch-Richter’s Greek Manners and Customs in Cyprus offers an insightful exploration of the Greek life and customs on the island of Cyprus, with a focus on both the ancient and contemporary aspects of Cypriot society. The book reflects the author's deep engagement with the ethnography and archaeology of Cyprus, during a time when the island was under British rule. It explores not only the cultural practices of Cypriots but also broader aspects of the island’s economy, natural environment and the influence of colonial governance.
One cannot examine Greek customs without encountering the legendary concept of "philoxenia" - a love of strangers that transforms into unparalleled hospitality. “But now we will have to ring the bells of praise for the hospitality, that great virtue of the Greeks of the island, which has been justly praised by all the previous travelers.” Ohnefalsch-Richter vividly illustrates how this deep-rooted tradition shapes Greek social interactions, from impromptu coffee invitations to elaborate feast preparations for unexpected guests. “Everyone who was sleeping jumped up, turned the beds, which were down on the floor, into the only two beds there were. Then we noticed that people were sleeping in their clothes, a habit very common among peasants. Daughters and sons, all had to help to serve us. Soon a fire was lit in the large hearth, so that our wet clothes and shoes could dry […]. Then, we eat the last two "nuts" of the house, "We ate the last bread in the evening and today, when it dawns, we will bake. We also lack flour. But we still have barley," said apologetically the peasant woman, and said to her eldest daughter: "my daughter, quickly grind some grain in the hand mill so we can bake bread." "And you," she said to her son, "run and wake the priest to give you a gourd full of his best wine, two or three sausages" and some sweet anari" because he has more sheep than we do. It's our shame and our misfortune that we run out of everything." And then, saying to me: "Forgive me, kokona." But do not be afraid. Something will be found. How hungry you must be."”
This age-old practice, she argues, is not just a social nicety but a fundamental aspect of Greek identity that has weathered centuries of change. “Hospitality in the purest sense of the word still exists here and there, in remote places and is found especially in the mountains.”
The book also explores other aspects of Greek culture, including religious rituals, social customs, family structures and celebrations. Drawing on extensive research and ethnographic fieldwork, the author paints a vivid picture of Greek cultural continuity, showing how many modern customs but also superstitions have roots in ancient traditions. “The youngest girl, who was eight years old, brings the incense burner. "Smoke is good to ward off the evil eye […].”
“It is time now to mention other customs (and non-customs), I would like to begin here by describing one of the strangest superstitions. It is about the organization of "a dog marriage" as a proven remedy against a rabid bite mind of a dog. When a rabid dog bites a human, man, woman or child, young or old, after exactly forty days they perform a "dog marriage"*. The rabid dog may have died in the meantime. But, according to Cypriot superstitions, the bitten person who symbolically married the rabid dog, stays awake all through the night of the dog, without sleeping for a moment, until sunrise and dances without stopping, until the final fall. I was invited to such a dog wedding in Larnaca. During the whole night they ate, drank, sang and danced. As in real weddings, there was no lack of music either. I can only assure you that the little girl who was allegedly bitten by the dog was unmarried and that she wasn’t suffering from rabies when she was "dog-married." Now, whether the dog they had meanwhile killed was truly raging, I cannot tell.”
Food lovers will find themselves salivating as she delves deeper into the significance of Greek cuisine. She reveals how the act of sharing a meal transcends mere sustenance, becoming a sacred ritual of communion and storytelling. The author's descriptions of traditional dishes and their cultural significance offer insight into how food intertwines with Greek history, religion, and family life.
Perhaps most intriguing is Ohnefalsch-Richter's analysis of Greek social dynamics. She unravels the complex interplay of pride, honor and communal bonds that govern Greek society. From the passionate debates in coffee houses to the intricate dance of social obligations, readers gain a nuanced understanding of what it truly means to be Greek.
Ohnefalsch-Richter's work challenges readers to look beyond the postcard-perfect images of whitewashed buildings and turquoise seas and instead immerse themselves in the living, breathing culture that has captivated the world for millennia.
Whether you're a history buff, a culture enthusiast, or simply someone yearning for a Mediterranean escape, this book promises to enlighten and entertain. It may just inspire you to book a ticket to Cyprus - not just to see the sights, but to experience a way of life that has been perfected over thousands of years and to join us here in the Research Centre of CVAR to have a look at the book as well.
The book is available in Greek and German. You can find this book, and many more, in the Research Centre of the CVAR.
The 'Book Of The Month' series is made possible with the support of OPAP (Cyprus).
