Cyprus: Its Ancient Cities, Tombs, and Temples: A narrative of researches and excavations during ten years’ residence in that island, by General Luis Palma di Cesnola, Harper & Brothers, Publishers, 1878.
Luigi Palma di Cesnola (1832-1904) was an Italian-born soldier, diplomat and amateur archaeologist who became a pivotal figure in early Mediterranean archaeological studies. After serving in the Sardinian army and then the Union Army during the American Civil War, he was appointed as the American consul to Cyprus in 1865. His passion for archaeology transformed him from a diplomatic officer into one of the most significant, albeit controversial, early explorers of Cypriot archaeological heritage. Later in his career, he became the first director of the Metropolitan Museum of Art in New York, where many of his Cypriot discoveries are still preserved.
Cesnola arrived in Cyprus in 1865 as the American consul. His diplomatic role soon became secondary to his passionate pursuit of archaeological discoveries across the island. Over the next decade, he would conduct extensive excavations that would uncover thousands of artifacts, transforming our understanding of Cyprus's ancient history.
His book “Cyprus: Its Cities, Tombs and Temples” is a fascinating blend of personal narrative and archaeological documentation. Through its pages, Cesnola guides readers through his discoveries at various sites across Cyprus. His account of the Temple of Golgoi excavation is particularly noteworthy, as are his detailed descriptions of the numerous tombs he explored. The work is enriched with illustrations and maps that, even today, provide valuable information about sites that have since been lost to time or development.
“Although this volume is rich in illustrations, yet it contains but a very small per centage of the Cypriote monuments which I brought to light during my excavations in Cyprus. The description of the different locali- ties and of the tombs and temples which will be found in these pages, has been taken from notes written by me on the spot at the time of the excavations, when I endeavoured to note down what I actually saw and as it appeared to me after a careful examination.”
Written at a crucial moment in Cyprus's archaeological exploration, it captures the island's historical treasures just as they were being revealed to the modern world. Cesnola's discoveries, including an impressive collection of sculptures, pottery and jewelry, demonstrated Cyprus's importance as a crossroads of ancient Mediterranean civilizations.
“I entertain the hope that the discoveries which I had the good fortune to make in Cyprus will prove more important as they become more generally known, and that they will justify the kindly expressed opinion of the illustrious discoverer of Nineveh, in saying “they will add a new and very important chapter to the history of Art and Archaeology”.”
However, this book must be read with historical context in mind. Cesnola's excavation methods, typical for his time but far from today's scientific standards, have been subject to criticism. Nevertheless, his records provide invaluable documentation of artifacts and sites, many of which have since been altered or lost.
“To some extent, also, the publication of this narra - tive was imposed upon me as a duty, by the fact that several distinguished scholars had expressed their fears as to whether my excavations had been conducted in a systematic manner, whether the ruins had been left in a suitable condition for future study and investiga - tion, and whether such a journal of the discoveries had been kept as would, from its details of how and where all the most important monuments had been found, prove of interest to science.”
The value of “Cyprus: Its Cities, Tombs and Temples” extends beyond its archaeological content. Cesnola's descriptions of 19th-century Cyprus offer fascinating insights into the island's landscape, people, and customs during this period. His accounts of local interactions and observations about rural life provide a unique perspective on a Cyprus that was on the cusp of significant changes.
“The Cypriotes are in general a frugal people, and when travelling, can accommodate themselves to almost every exigency. More than once during my excursions in the island I have found, on entering some small village, some wealthy merchant of my acquaintance seated cross-legged on the threshold of a hut, with a straw tray resembling the lid of a basket placed before him, on which were a few black olives, a hard piece of brown bread, and some sour milk, apparently enjoying his repast. The customs of democracy prevail on these occasions, and it is not uncommon to find the muleteer seated opposite the merchant, eating from the same dish and drinking from the same jug, a glass being in the interior of the island considered a useless luxury. Often also the urchins of the house, and the dogs and fowls will come to pick up something from the stranger's table.”
For modern readers, this book serves multiple purposes. It is simultaneously a historical document, an archaeological record and a reminder of how our understanding of ancient Cyprus has evolved. Whether you're interested in archaeology, local history, or simply curious about how Cyprus was viewed by foreign visitors in the 19th century, Cesnola's work offers valuable insights.
Through its pages, we not only learn about ancient Cyprus but also witness the beginnings of systematic archaeological exploration on the island. While we may question some of Cesnola's methods today, his work undeniably played a crucial role in bringing Cyprus's rich archaeological heritage to international attention.
You can find this book and many more, in the Research Centre of the CVAR.
The 'Book Of The Month' series is made possible with the support of OPAP (Cyprus).
