Sandys Travels: containing an history of the original and present state of the Turkish Empire, their laws, government, policy, military force, courts of justice, and commerce, the Mahometan religion and ceremonies, a description of Constantinople, the Grand Signior's seraglio, and his manner of living : also, of Greece, with the religion and customs of the Grecians : of AEgypt, the antiquity, hieroglyphicks, rites, customs, and discipline, and religion of the AEgyptians : a voyage on the River Nylus : of Armenia, Grand Cairo, Rhodes, the Pyramides, Colossus, the former flourishing and present state of Alexandria : a description of the Holy-Land, of the Jews, and several sects of Christians living there : of Jerusalem, sepulchre of Christ, Temple of Solomon, and what else either of antiquity, or worth observation : lastly, Italy described, and the islands adjoining, as Cyprus, Crete, Malta, Sicilia, the AEolian Islands, of Rome, Venice, Naples, Syracusa, Mesena, Aetna, Scylla, and Charybdis, and other places of note : illustrated with fifty graven maps and figures, by George Sandys, Printed for J. Williams Junior at the Crown in Little Britain, 1673.
George Sandys (1578-1644) was an English traveler, colonist, and poet. His Travels, first published in 1615, is a comprehensive account of his journey through the Eastern Mediterranean from 1610 to 1613. The book is notable not only for its detailed observations but also for its numerous illustrations and maps, making it a significant resource for understanding early modern perceptions of the Eastern Mediterranean.
Sandys' account of Cyprus is particularly valuable, as he provides a comprehensive overview of the island's rich history, highlighting its significance in antiquity. His narrative reflects a keen interest in Cyprus' mythological associations, particularly its connection to Aphrodite, with detailed descriptions of sites like Paphos, traditionally held to be the goddess’s birthplace. “Our sails now swelling with the first breath of May, on the right hand we left Cyprus, sacred of old unto Venus, who (as they feign) was here first exhibited to morals”
Sandys describes Cyprus with a historian's eye, focusing on its ancient ruins and notable sites such as Amathus and Salamis. “Salamina was built by Teucer in memorial of that from whence he was banished by his father Telamon, for not revenging of his brother.” He highlights the remnants of ancient cities and monuments, alongside more recent Venetian fortifications still visible in the towns. His account underscores Cyprus' long history of conquest and resilience, from the Egyptians to the Venetians, and finally, the Ottomans. “It was first possessed by the Sons of Faphet; payed tribute first by the Egyptian Amasis ; then conquered by Belus, […] and then it continued under the under the Government of the Ptolemees, till the Romans took it from the last of that name […] submitted to the Bizantine Emperours; being ruled by a succession of Dukes for the space of eight hundred years […] it was by Catharina Cornelia a Venetian Lady, the Widow to King James the Bastard, who had taken by strong hand from his sister Carlotte, resigned to Venetians, who ninety seven years after did lose it to the Indfidels, under whose yoke it now groaneth”. Sandys’ portrayal of Cyprus is not merely observational, it reflects on the island’s shifting fortunes through time.
Sandys devotes significant attention to the natural wealth of Cyprus, carefully documenting the island's mineral resources. His observations of the historic copper mines are particularly valuable, noting how these deposits were so abundant that they gave Cyprus its very name. “They have plentiful Mines of Brass, from small store of Gold and Silver, green Soder, […] and divers kinds of precious Stones of inferior value, amongst which the Emerald, and the Turky.”
In his cultural observations, Sandys presents a nuanced picture of 17th century Cyprus as a multicultural society shaped by Greek, Turkish and lingering Venetian influences. “The Franks have their factors resident in Nicosia; partly inhabited by the ancient Greek Cypriots, and partly by the Greeks and Moors.”
Sandys’ Travels is a rich source for anyone interested in the history and cultural landscape of Cyprus during the Ottoman era. Through his detailed observations, he captures the essence of an island that has long been a point of convergence for different civilizations. Whether discussing its ancient ruins, religious diversity, or role in Mediterranean trade, Sandys brings to life the many layers of Cyprus’ identity, offering a reflection on its enduring significance as a cultural and geographic crossroads.
For modern readers, his account serves as a fascinating point of comparison with contemporary Cyprus. It allows us to trace the evolution of the island’s society, culture and landscape over four centuries, while providing context for the historical sites and traditions that continue to define it today. In conclusion, George Sandys' Travels, particularly its sections on Cyprus, remains an invaluable resource for understanding the island’s past and its place in the early modern Mediterranean world. It offers a unique opportunity to view Cyprus through the eyes of a 17th-century traveler, giving readers both historical insights and a deeper appreciation for its rich cultural heritage.
You can find this book and many more, in the Research Centre of the CVAR.
The 'Book Of The Month' series is made possible with the support of OPAP (Cyprus).
